Thursday – 2 Aug 2018

Another sight seeing and culture day.  After our normal excursion to find the fish market, we went by train to Coimbra, about 45 km away. It was a local train that followed the river, stopping every few minutes at tiny little stations in the middle of nowhere.

Coimbra (pronounced Queem bra), was the capital of Portugal from 1143- 1255. A university was established here in 1537, and although it was moved back and forth, to and from Lisbon, it was the only university in Portugal until the start of the last century.  It is still very prestigious.

We started by visiting the cathedral, Se Velha, part way up the hill. Building started in 1162 and it has been altered little since. Internally it is relatively simple as you would expect for a building of this age.  We were also able to walk round the Renaissance Porta Especiosa, adjoining the north wall,

at the top of the hill, with glorious views overlooking the river valley, is the university. The buildings date back to the sixteenth century, when it was founded by the King Joao III, and also contain a small royal palace. This was used in particular by Joao V who was dedicated to leaning and founded a library, the Biblioteca Joanina in the eighteenth century. It is richly decorated and holds a vast number of the books that Jaoa V collected including rare manuscripts.  Apparently accounts from contemporary visitors say that he used to read for up to 9 hours a day. Even then it would have been good going to get through all of the books contained within a lifetime.

It was fiercely hot, 38 degrees, and we waited as long as possible before tackling the 186 steps up a tower for even more spectacular views over the valley. The staircase was tiny and wound up the tower, with no possibility of passing people coming in the opposite direction. Fortunately there were none, but it was tricky enough just dealing with the steps.

By the time we had returned on the train is was late and we were too tired to cook, so we found a restaurant and had cataplana made with clams and shrimps, and washed down with some excellent local wine. A great day.

Before coming here, I had never heard of Figueira da Foz or Coimbra, in fact we are a little ashamed of how little we knew of Portugal beyond a couple of cities and the Algarve region. This is clearly a place where the Portuguese come for their holidays and it is easy to see why.  Great food, great beaches, access to culture etc, it has been an unexpected joy to be here.

Distance covered today	0	nautical miles
Trip distance covered	972	nautical miles
Distance covered 2018	1692	nautical miles

Steve (and Tricia and Teresa)